Hello everyone,
Despite the fact that it has been over a week since our last post, we are still very much in the land of the living! The reasons for the delay have been a combination (or lack of) I/net connections and being on the move. Our last days in Japan were very social, and our time in Taipei all too short. We are now on the island of Koh Samui on the east coast of Thailand, and it is the tropical paradise we had been told about. A bit overdeveloped, it is true, but we are here for a rest, and getting it. I (Keith) have been getting lots of massages (of the most virginal type), and feel very rejuvenated. We leave tomorrow for Phom Penh, in preparation for our Angkor Wat excursion (a four day affair). More of that ex post facto.
Taipei is almost surrealistic, with its bizarre combination of Asiatic and outre Western architecture welded on. It is less chaotic than we had been led to believe, largely because of a very modern Metro system - tho we took taxis. Koji has another penpal here, who was most hospitable and showed us the various quarters of the city. We avoided the Floral Exposition because of the crowds, the chill and the wind, but did see the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial. The latter is in the most extravagant mock herioc style, and seemed to have been designed by an asiatic Albert Speer. Apparently its days as a CKS Memorial are numbered, as CKS seems to be suffering from historical revisionism. What will happen to his personal memorabilia is anyone's guess, as the underwear he wore upon meeting with Eisenhower and other anti-communist dignatories of his era seems to be losing its historical lustre.
Of course, the main purpose of our visit here was the National Palace Museum - the repository of the Q'ing Dynasty treaures of the last Imperial Court. We were impressed beyond all description with the books, calligraphy, paintings, ceramics (particularly) jewellery and curios of precious stones. Needless to say, the collection spanned thousands of years, and is remarkably preserved and displayed. Worth our entire trip, tho we expect to be bowled over again and again as we progress further west.
I am writing this in an I/net cafe on the main drag of Chaweng - the centre of high life on Koh Samui - so can say a good deal less than I would care to. However, we have higher (perhaps absurdly foolish) hopes of the WiFi facilities in the Intercontinental in Phom Penh, so I hope to be able to report at greater length there after Angkor Wat.
For those who knew Kitty Heller, I have heard of her not unexpected death, and and am greatly affected by it. I wonder if you, Leon & Leila, could convey my sincere condolences to Paul & Edwina.
Until next time,
Keith & Koji
Friday, January 28, 2011
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Museums & Kabuki
Hello everyone,
This is our fifth full day in Tokyo, and we have been enjoying every minute - particularly in view of the crisp, clear weather whch is rare enough here. On Monday we went to the Suntory Museum to view an exhibition of Meissen porcelain over the last three hundred years since the factory opened in Saxony. There was a bit of everything from miniatures to huge symbolic porcelain sculptures representing the triumphs of successive Electors of Saxony - most of whom seem to have been called either August, Charles or Charles August. It was all stunning, but we were most intrigued with the whimsical miniature menageries. One collection of seven pieces made up what was called "The Monkey Orchestra". You may have noted that we seem to be drawn to edifices emanating from the munificence of Mr. Suntory and his heirs, successors and assigns. We assume that they repesent either guilt money or tax shelters or both from an immense liquor fortune, but we have enjoyed being indirect beneficiaries. We are uninformed whether there is a Suntory Rehab Centre as well.
Yesterday we went to the Kokuritsu Museum of Western Art, mainly to see the collection of the late Mr. Matsukawa of French Impressionists, Post-Impressionists and early C20 Western Art - with some later additions eg. Jackson Pollock. The collection is rather small, and rather heavy on Courbet, Puvis de Chavannes and Fantin Latour, but its interest lay mainly in what appealed to a Japanese tycoon of good family in the first half of the C20. We should also mention that there is a predictable plethora of Monets, including an oversized ''Water Lilies" - so large that it borders on the vulgar. We heard tell that there were some rather good Marie Laurencins elsewhere in the Gallery, but we chose instead to go to a minor exhibition named "The Outsiders". consisting of some very good Daumiers of various freaks and (to Daumier) foreigners. He had a very discounted view of where the Chinese stood in relation to les bons bourgeois of his day in France but, PC aside, the engravings were very fine.
This afternoon marked possibly the cultural highlight of this trip to Japan, as we both realized a lifetime ambition to see a full-on performance of the Kabuki Theatre. It was in the Naional Theatre of Japan, which is as well-designed as any modern theatre we have encountered. How to describe a Kabuki performance? It is a delightful melange of melodrama, Grand Guignol, pantomime, circus, ballet and opera buffo. It is an old form of theatre designed to entertain while recalling the glory days of the Edo period. The costumes and make-up are extravagant, and the special effects quite extraordinary - flying ghosts, enormous spiders, fiery dragons etc. By tradition all the actors are men, but it is light years away from any notion of a drag show.
We have had two delightful dinners out, neither as it turns out in Japanese restaurants. One was hosted by Koji's nephew Masahiro in a Western fusion cafe, and last night we had dinner in a Chinese restaurant with a new friend whom Koji met as a penpal on the Internet. The meals were delightful, as was the company. But we are here until Sunday morning, and will be having lots of good Japanese food as well as visiting museums concentrating on Japanese art.
Enough for the present, as your reporter is fading fast. Best wishes to all.
This is our fifth full day in Tokyo, and we have been enjoying every minute - particularly in view of the crisp, clear weather whch is rare enough here. On Monday we went to the Suntory Museum to view an exhibition of Meissen porcelain over the last three hundred years since the factory opened in Saxony. There was a bit of everything from miniatures to huge symbolic porcelain sculptures representing the triumphs of successive Electors of Saxony - most of whom seem to have been called either August, Charles or Charles August. It was all stunning, but we were most intrigued with the whimsical miniature menageries. One collection of seven pieces made up what was called "The Monkey Orchestra". You may have noted that we seem to be drawn to edifices emanating from the munificence of Mr. Suntory and his heirs, successors and assigns. We assume that they repesent either guilt money or tax shelters or both from an immense liquor fortune, but we have enjoyed being indirect beneficiaries. We are uninformed whether there is a Suntory Rehab Centre as well.
Yesterday we went to the Kokuritsu Museum of Western Art, mainly to see the collection of the late Mr. Matsukawa of French Impressionists, Post-Impressionists and early C20 Western Art - with some later additions eg. Jackson Pollock. The collection is rather small, and rather heavy on Courbet, Puvis de Chavannes and Fantin Latour, but its interest lay mainly in what appealed to a Japanese tycoon of good family in the first half of the C20. We should also mention that there is a predictable plethora of Monets, including an oversized ''Water Lilies" - so large that it borders on the vulgar. We heard tell that there were some rather good Marie Laurencins elsewhere in the Gallery, but we chose instead to go to a minor exhibition named "The Outsiders". consisting of some very good Daumiers of various freaks and (to Daumier) foreigners. He had a very discounted view of where the Chinese stood in relation to les bons bourgeois of his day in France but, PC aside, the engravings were very fine.
This afternoon marked possibly the cultural highlight of this trip to Japan, as we both realized a lifetime ambition to see a full-on performance of the Kabuki Theatre. It was in the Naional Theatre of Japan, which is as well-designed as any modern theatre we have encountered. How to describe a Kabuki performance? It is a delightful melange of melodrama, Grand Guignol, pantomime, circus, ballet and opera buffo. It is an old form of theatre designed to entertain while recalling the glory days of the Edo period. The costumes and make-up are extravagant, and the special effects quite extraordinary - flying ghosts, enormous spiders, fiery dragons etc. By tradition all the actors are men, but it is light years away from any notion of a drag show.
We have had two delightful dinners out, neither as it turns out in Japanese restaurants. One was hosted by Koji's nephew Masahiro in a Western fusion cafe, and last night we had dinner in a Chinese restaurant with a new friend whom Koji met as a penpal on the Internet. The meals were delightful, as was the company. But we are here until Sunday morning, and will be having lots of good Japanese food as well as visiting museums concentrating on Japanese art.
Enough for the present, as your reporter is fading fast. Best wishes to all.
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Suntory Hall
Today has been our second full day in Tokyo, and our big event was attending a concert this afternoon (Sunday) given by the Japan Philharmonic at Suntory Hall. The latter was opened in 1986 and is the premier location in Tokyo for orchestral performances and recitals It is quite modern in design, but has superb acoustics. The Japan Phlharmonic is second only to the NHK Symphony in reputation. and we were very impressed with its conductor - Kenichiro Kobayashi. He guest conducts often in Europe and is very flamboyant and involved in style. The instrumentalists are first-rate as well. and the only drawback from our point of view was the programme. We think the theme was "Proms meet New Year in Vienna". and it was "Blue Danube", Beethoven Fifth. and "New World" with "Csardas" as a rousing encore. Not at all innovative and made the VSO seem positively "cutting edge". The audience was a refreshing mixture of young & old, and behaved beautifully. We could also have booked seats for Helene Grimaud tomorrow but are not that enthusiastic abut her as a pianist. Besides that, we moved heaven & earth to get seats for the Kabuki on Wednesday, and enough is enough.
Tokyo is not as cold as we expected, and as we are staying at the ANA Intercontinental in Akasaka (close to the Imperial Palace) there is little sign of the recession. The women are as smartly dressed as ever, and we are engulfed by shops and boutiques with unaffordable prices. It is as well that our shopping days are largely over!
The rest of the week will be concerned with family, friends and some new museums. The weather, though not frigid, doesn't lend itself to promendaing the boulevards of Tokyo, exchanging witticisms with the Tokyo "bene". Till the next post.
K + K
Tokyo is not as cold as we expected, and as we are staying at the ANA Intercontinental in Akasaka (close to the Imperial Palace) there is little sign of the recession. The women are as smartly dressed as ever, and we are engulfed by shops and boutiques with unaffordable prices. It is as well that our shopping days are largely over!
The rest of the week will be concerned with family, friends and some new museums. The weather, though not frigid, doesn't lend itself to promendaing the boulevards of Tokyo, exchanging witticisms with the Tokyo "bene". Till the next post.
K + K
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Introduction
Hello everyone,
Keith & Koji here, starting a blog about our impending trip around the world in 86 days by air. Some of you have expressed interest in a running account of our progress, so we thought this the best way to keep our families and friends (at least those who are interested) apprised of the highlights. Some of these posts will be in Japanese for the benefit of our Japanese friends and family, and we hope this will not discourage non-Japanese readers. There will be the occasional picture, taken, processed and posted by Koji, as I (Keith) remain both photographically and electronically severely disabled. We leave for Tokyo on January 13, and will be there for about ten days before heading to Taipei to visit the National Palace Museum and the World Floral Exposition. We will not bore you at the moment with details of our onward movements, but do stay tuned. We do hope that at least some of you will ''follow'' us, and as we will have access to the Internet almost everywhere, the occasional email would be greatly appreciated - sent to either kbfarquhar@shaw.ca or k-ito@shaw.ca. In the meantime, happy New Year to all.
Keith & Koji here, starting a blog about our impending trip around the world in 86 days by air. Some of you have expressed interest in a running account of our progress, so we thought this the best way to keep our families and friends (at least those who are interested) apprised of the highlights. Some of these posts will be in Japanese for the benefit of our Japanese friends and family, and we hope this will not discourage non-Japanese readers. There will be the occasional picture, taken, processed and posted by Koji, as I (Keith) remain both photographically and electronically severely disabled. We leave for Tokyo on January 13, and will be there for about ten days before heading to Taipei to visit the National Palace Museum and the World Floral Exposition. We will not bore you at the moment with details of our onward movements, but do stay tuned. We do hope that at least some of you will ''follow'' us, and as we will have access to the Internet almost everywhere, the occasional email would be greatly appreciated - sent to either kbfarquhar@shaw.ca or k-ito@shaw.ca. In the meantime, happy New Year to all.
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